Pecos National Historical Park

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The Upper Pecos Valley in New Mexico has served as a corridor between the Great Plains and the southwestern high country for thousands of years. As a result, Pecos National Historical Park has layer upon layer of history. The park primarily relates the overlapping stories of ancestral Puebloans, European contact and conquest, Santa Fe trail usage and a Civil War battle. Pecos National Monument was established in 1965 because of its archeological importance and, in 1990, was elevated to a National Historical Park and expanded to include landmarks from the Civil War battle.

Probably the first humans to enter the area were nomadic hunters of 10,000 years ago. By 6,000 B.C. a hunter-gatherer culture had filtered in from the far west. By 2,000 years ago northwestern New Mexico was home to Anasazi, also known as ancestral Puebloans, who were early farmers.

Ancestral Puebloans settled in the Upper Pecos Valley around 800 A.D, left abruptly the end of the tenth century and returned in the early 1200’s. Over the next 200 years they built stone masonry pueblos up and down the Pecos Valley. Then, for unknown reasons, these villagers left their pueblos and joined people already living atop the steep-sided mesilla that rises from the east bank of Glorieta Creek.

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By the time Columbus reached the Americas, Pecos Pueblo had grown into one of the largest and most powerful city-states in northern New Mexico. Archeologist Alfred Kidder found evidence that the pueblo was designed in advance and constructed as a unit, rather than starting small and growing over time. Lacking doors and windows on the lower stories and encircled by a chest high wall, it was nearly impregnable. Pecos became a gateway and a trading center for people of the pueblos and those of the plains.

The arrival of Coronado and the conquistadors in 1540 heralded the beginning of the decline of Pecos Pueblo. The pueblo welcomed the Spaniards as they had other potential trading partners. A series of events soured the relationship which would alternate between coexistence and confrontation. In 1598, Don Juan de Oñate set forth to colonize New Mexico. Franciscan priests were assigned to the region and rewarded with encomiendas (system by which the Spanish Crown granted a colonist land and the right to demand tribute and forced labor from the Indian inhabitants of the area).

Between 1617 and 1717 the Franciscans built four churches at Pecos. The first church was never finished and was located some distance from the main pueblo. Completed in 1625 using Indian labor, a huge mission church covering 6,000 square feet and built of 300,000 adobe bricks rose fifty-five feet above Pecos; the Mission of Our Lady of the Angels of Porciúncula. The foundations of this structure are visible today. During the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, the Indians set fire to the roof and toppled its massive walls.IMG_4322

Don Diego de Vargas led a small army up the Rio Grande to retake New Mexico in 1692. Pecos was under Spanish sovereignty again, and a temporary church was erected. By 1717, the fourth church was completed atop the ruins of the massive mission. However, the Pueblo was in decline due to famine, European disease, the threat of Apache raids and Hispanic settlement in the area. By 1838, fewer than thirty members of a pueblo that once numbered two thousand remained. These individuals left to join Towa-speaking relatives at Jemez Pueblo. The ruins of this fourth church and of Pecos Pueblo stand silent on the mesa.

In 1821, William Becknell headed west from Missouri to Santa Fe with a mule train of merchandise. The Santa Fe trail was born and for sixty years, wagon trains and stage coaches traveled the trail, passing Fort Union and Pecos through Glorieta Pass to Santa Fe. Two stagecoach stops on the trail are preserved within the park: Kozlowski’s Stage Stop and Pigeon’s Ranch. Much of the old Santa Fe Trail is now part of I-25.

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The Upper Pecos Valley also served as a corridor for wars. In 1846, the first year of the Mexican-American War U.S. troops marched through the area on their way to seize Santa Fe.

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In the last half of 1861, Confederate Brigadier General Henry Hopkins Sibley raised a volunteer Texas force to invade New Mexico Territory. The plan was to capture military supplies at Union forts, recruit westerners to the Confederate cause, and take control of the mining riches of Colorado and the key ports in the California Territory. Sibley’s forces clashed with Union forces under the command of Col. Edward R.S. Canby near Fort Craig and were triumphant in what became known as the Battle of Valverde. Sibley then marched northward, occupying Albuquerque and taking Santa Fe. From there, they began moving eastward with the intent of capturing Fort Union, northeast of Pecos.

On March 25th, 1862, unbeknownst to each other, Union and Confederate forces were camped on opposite sides of Glorieta Pass. Advance pickets soon discovered each other’s forces. Over the next three days, they engaged in the fighting that became known as the Battle of Glorieta. With approximately 1200 soldiers on each side, the casualties were high. Union forces suffered 51 killed, 78 wounded and 15 captured. Confederate forces had 48 killed, 80 wounded, and 92 captured.

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We hiked the trails over the battlefield area which was quite hilly. Rangers reminded us that in 1862 it looked very different as it was not so heavily vegetated. March 26 – 28th the Union and Confederate troops were engaged in artillery duels, sharpshooting and fighting at close range with several advances and retreats. On March 28, Maj. John Chivington and his men surprised the Confederate rear guard by marching over the steep Glorieta Mesa and destroying their food and ammunition supplies. This forced the Confederates to quit the battlefield they had won and retreat to Santa Fe.

The Battle of Glorieta is referred to as “The Gettysburg of the West.” Tom and I felt that was a bit of a stretch but much as the Confederates never invaded the North again after Gettysburg, they also never attempted a significant action in the far West after Glorieta, so it was significant.

For more information:

https://www.nps.gov/peco/index.htm

 

Posted in Anasazi, Battle of Glorieta, hiking, History, National Historic Site, New Mexico, Pecos National Historical Park, prehistoric ruins, Santa Fe Trail, Southwest History, Travels in the U.S., U.S. History, U.S. military history, Western History, Western U.S. | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Washita Battlefield National Historic Site

IMG_2284.jpgIt’s been over a year since we visited Washita Battlefield National Historic Site and it has taken me this long to decide how to write about it. Located in western Oklahoma, in November of 1868 this site was the winter camp of the band of Southern Cheyenne led by Black Kettle. I’ve done quite a bit of reading trying to make some kind of sense out of what happened there and it still baffles and bothers me. Of course, I’m looking at it through my twenty-first century lens and one of the things the ranger on duty said was that there is a difference of opinion as to whether this should be called a battle or a massacre. I’ll let you decide what you think.

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We were at Washita at the end of December so the battlefield was cold and windy and conditions were similar to those in 1868 except that there was no snow on the ground and we were there mid-day. We hiked the trail through the battlefield and read the trail guide to learn what happened there. We were the only people visiting the site that day so perhaps it was a little easier to visualize what it must have been like in 1868.

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The Cheyenne were a nomadic tribe who originated in the woodlands of the Great Lakes region and migrated west. By the early 1830’s. they had forged important friendships with white traders on the Arkansas River, trading thousands of buffalo robes at Bent’s Fort.

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The Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851 promised lands to the Cheyenne and Arapaho which included the Pike’s Peak area in which gold was discovered in 1858. Some Cheyenne leaders, including Black Kettle, felt the best course of action was to move away from the growing white population and in 1861, they entered into the Treaty of Fort Wise which reduced their land holdings for a compensation of $450,000. The Dog Soldiers and some of the other warrior societies refused to recognize the treaty. Black Kettle and other Cheyenne peace chiefs were fairly successful in controlling their young men but other tribes conducted raids north along the Platte.

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Things changed dramatically in 1864 after Lean Bear was shot by U.S. troops while attempting to parley, and hostilities broke out in earnest along the Platte and Arkansas river routes. Cheyenne chiefs met with the governor in an attempt to arrange a peace, leaving there with assurances of safety and setting up winter camp on Sand Creek. However, in November, Col. John Chivington and his Third Colorado Cavalry swept into the village and massacred 125 men, women and children.

Black Kettle and his wife, Medicine Woman Later, survived the massacre, and even then, tried to effect a peace between his people and the whites. In 1865, Black Kettle and other chiefs negotiated yet another treaty, the Little Arkansas Treaty, which established a new reservation south of the Arkansas River. In 1867, another treaty established a new reservation in Indian Territory (Oklahoma). However, the nomadic ways of these tribes precluded acceptance of confinement to the specific territory of the reservation. Cultures clashed.

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In 1868, Indian/white hostilities broke out in Kansas. Maj. Gen. Philip H. Sheridan prepared for a winter campaign against the hostile bands. He chose winter because Indian horses would be weak from lack of forage and the cold and snow would make it easier to overtake villages. His plan was basically the same as “The Burning” of the Shenandoah Valley during the Civil War – complete destruction. Sheridan planned a three-pronged attack: cavalry and infantry marching east from New Mexico; cavalry moving southeast from Colorado; and Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer leading an attack south from Fort Dodge, Kansas.

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Black Kettle’s village was sprawled along the Washita River, a few miles from other camps. It was bitter cold and they were processing meat from recent hunts. Just before dawn on November 27, 1868, Custer led his troopers in a surprise attack on the village. His approximately 700 troopers were divided into four parts: the first, under Maj. Joel Elliott, would circle the village and strike from downstream; the second, under Capt. William Thompson, would attack from the south; the third, under Capt. Edward Myers, would move in from the west; and the largest contingent, under Custer himself, would charge directly into the village.

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The number of Cheyenne killed that morning is unknown. Custer claimed 103 but Cheyenne accounts are as low as 13 men, 16 women and 9 children. Both Black Kettle and his wife, Medicine Woman Later, were killed. There were 53 women and children taken captive. The cavalry then burned the lodges and all their contents and slaughtered the large herd of Indian ponies leaving the surviving Cheyenne to suffer the brutal winter.

Maj. Elliott’s detachment was missing, but faced with warriors from the camps further down the river, Custer left the Washita Valley. When Custer and Sheridan returned to the site in early December, they found the remains of Elliott and his troopers.

This attack and other military actions soon forced the Southern Plains tribes to live on the reservation.

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Magpie, a boy of sixteen on that fateful day on the Washita, escaped. In June of 1876, Magpie was in the Lakota and Northern Cheyenne village on the Little Bighorn River in Montana when Custer and his Seventh Cavalry struck. Custer and more than 250 of his men were killed. Magpie became a chief of the Cheyenne.

Congress established Washita Battlefield National Historic Site as a unit of the national park system on November 12, 1996. This site recognizes the attack by Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer and his 7th U. S. Cavalry on the Cheyenne encampment of Peace Chief Black Kettle as a nationally significant element of the United States Government Indian policy and the struggles of the Cheyenne to maintain control of their traditional homelands.IMG_2258

 

For additional information:

https://www.nps.gov/waba/index.htm

Greene, Jerome A. Washita: the U.S. Army and the Southern Cheyennes, 1867-1869.  Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 2004.

Posted in History, National Historic Site, Oklahoma, Travel, Travels in the U.S., U.S. History, U.S. military history, Western History, Western U.S. | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Haleakalā National Park

 

Sunrise above the clouds near the summit of Haleakalā was an absolutely amazing experience. When we first planned the trip to visit Haleakalā National Park on the island of Maui we were somewhat skeptical about the value of getting up at 2 a.m. and taking a bus tour to stand in the freezing cold wind on top a mountain in order to be there before sunrise. Not exactly what one thinks of as a Hawaiian sort of experience. To our great surprise, it was more than worth the cost, the getting up in the middle of the night, and the dragging warm coats during our trip all over the tropical Pacific.

IMG_7386The nation’s eleventh national park, Hawaiʻi National Park was originally established August 1, 1916, 24 days before the National Park Service was established by Congress. It consisted of three units: the summit of Haleakalā on Maui and portions of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa on Hawaiʻi. However, it took another six years before any funding was allocated to begin operations there. In the early years, most of the emphasis was on Kīlauea and Mauna Loa for which there was easier access. A road to the top of Haleakalā was completed in 1935. In 1960, Hawaii National Park was re-designated as two new national parks: Haleakalā National Park on Maui and Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park on Hawaiʻi.

Haleakalā rises 10,023 feet above sea level and below the ocean descends another 19.000 feet making it one of the largest mountains on earth when measured from its base. The “crater” atop Mount Haleakalā is not actually a volcanic crater but rather a giant valley which is the result of erosion.IMG_7310

Haleakalā itself is a huge shield volcano on the island of Maui and the national park encompasses the basin and portions of the volcano’s flanks. It was believed that the most recent eruption was in 1790 but more recent scientific studies indicate it could have been between 1480 and 1780.

Haleakalā means “house of the sun” and is a wahi pana: a legendary or celebrated place which is the backdrop for tales of ancient gods and goddesses, chiefs and priests, nature and humankind. One of the most famous stories recalls the time when the demigod Maui stopped the sun. In those days the sun moved so quickly across the heavens that humans led a miserable life. Without sunlight, fruit would not ripen, daily tasks couldn’t be completed and kapa cloth would not dry. With a rope made from coconut husks, from high atop Haleakalā, Maui lassoed the sun. One by one, he broke off the sun’s rays, until the sun begged for life and promised to go more slowly across the sky. The days were long and bright and life was pleasant.

There is very limited parking at the top of the mountain and sunrise is so popular the park service has instituted a system to control the number of visitors any given morning. You can purchase a ticket for a minimal fee for your personal car or you can be a part of a sanctioned tour. Traffic up the mountain from 2 a.m. until 7 a.m. is closed to all other vehicles. Even quite in advance, tickets for personal vehicles were sold out and the idea of the curvy, steep road in the dark made the tour option more attractive.

Our trip up the mountain began with leaving our B&B at 2:30 a.m. to meet the tour bus at 3:00 a.m. Our bus driver Nettie, a native Hawaiʻian, was our guide. She was full of information and obviously loved the mountain Haleakalā. Ascending the mountain, the temperature drops about 3°F. per 1,000 feet in elevation. However, between 5,000 and 7,000 feet there is often a temperature inversion layer which forms when heat rises from the surrounding landmass, cools, and creates a “lid” trapping the moist warm air below. This is responsible for the wreath of clouds that often gently hugs the middle slopes of Haleakalā although clear skies prevail above and below. We travelled above this wreath of clouds. Upon reaching the top, still in pitch darkness, we grabbed a spot at the railing to view the sunrise. It was very cold and very windy on the mountaintop waiting for the “show” to begin. We were quite happy to have warm coats, hats, and gloves and a blanket around our shoulders. We did take turns holding our spot and taking a quick warm-up in the visitor center which was small and crowded. And then it began: the first light over the rim of the clouds. As it progressed the colors on the clouds and reflected in the sky were incredible. It’s difficult to describe but we knew, without a doubt, that the effort and discomfort was more than worth it.

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The Hawaiʻian Islands are the most isolated island group on the planet, 2400 miles from the nearest continental land mass. This isolation limited the arrival of plants and animals and, as a result of adaptation, many new species emerged. One of the primary reasons for Haleakalā National Park is to preserve the unique biology of native flora and fauna.

The ʻāhinahina (Haleakalā silversword) is found only above the 7,000-foot elevation on Haleakalā volcano. The silversword grows for an estimated 30 to 60 years before sending up a single, spectacular flower stalk from its silver rosette of leaves. This stalk bears as many as five hundred blossoms, flourishes for a few weeks while its seeds mature, then begins to die. No one knows what triggers the plant to flower or why many silverswords bloom in some years and few bloom in others. Very concentrated efforts have brought the silversword back from near extinction but it has shown a decline in recent years.

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In addition to Haleakalā National Park, we did a bit of exploring on Maui.

We visited the Alexander and Baldwin Sugar Museum in Puʼunēnē. This museum is dedicated to preserving and presenting the history and heritage of Maui’s sugar industry. It looks at sugar’s influence on the development of Maui’s water resources and rich multiethnic makeup. The Puʼunēnē Sugar Mill was in operation from 1902 until 2016. As 2016 came to a close, it brought forth the end of an era not only for Maui but the entire state of Hawaii. Hawaii’s last sugarcane company, HC&S, ceased operations. We were told that the plan is to replant the sugarcane fields with hemp, which takes less water. Although industrial hemp and medical and recreational marijuana are all members of the cannabis family, hemp is distinguished from other species by its extremely low THC content. Hemp fiber is known for use in making rope but there are also thousands of other uses for industrial hemp.

The road to Hana is touted as one of the world’s curviest roads and it seems as if some of the tourist info brochures are designed to either scare people away from driving it or daring them to be adventurous and drive it. Being very familiar with mountain roads in the Rockies, we didn’t find it all that hair-raising. That side of the island is rainforest so there was lots of jungle on the uphill side of the road and great ocean views on the down side. It is a pretty drive and there are 56 one-lane bridges and 600 hairpin curves.

Hoʻokipa Beach Park is a resting place for Honu – Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles. The turtles come up on the beach, rest, and go back into the sea. There were so many of them and they were fascinating to watch. The resting area is lightly roped off but the turtles didn’t seem to mind that the rest of the beach was full of people swimming, surfing and wind-surfing. Climb up on the beach, take a snooze, and head back into the water. Seems like a rather pleasant way to spend some time.

For more information: https://www.nps.gov/hale/index.htm

Posted in Haleakalā National Park, Hawaii, National Park, National Park Travels, Nature Photos, Pacific ocean, Parks, Travel, Travels in the U.S., U.S. national parks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

National Park of American Samoa

 

sign2National Park of American Samoa became our 50th out of 59 national parks to visit. We always thought it would be number 59 but a family wedding in Hawaii meant we would be halfway there so we added it to that trip. American Samoa is roughly 2600 miles southwest of Hawaii and just east of the International Date Line in the South Pacific. There are only two flights a week from Honolulu so the choice was to go either way on Monday or on Friday. We chose Monday outbound so we would have an extra day there. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay. Even though the national park was our reason for visiting, the people of American Samoa proved to be the real draw. They were very friendly and welcoming. The pace is leisurely and low stress with few tourists.

American Samoa is the only U.S. territory south of the equator and consists of seven islands: five rugged, highly eroded volcanic islands and two coral atolls. The national park here is unique in that there is no federally-owned land; parkland and water are leased from native villages and from the American Samoa government. In 1993 Samoan chiefs agreed to sign a 50-year lease that enables the National Park Service, with Samoan help, to manage an area of rainforest, beach and coral reef on three islands.

Tutuila is the largest of the seven islands in American Samoa and Pago Pago Harbor is one of the largest natural harbors in the South Pacific. It cuts deeply into the south-central coast and almost divides the island in two. A steep mountainous spine runs the 20-mile length of the island and it was this portion of the national park on this island that we explored. Much of it is tremendously rugged so our hiking was somewhat limited. The park preserves the only mixed-species paleotropical rainforest in the United States and is the habitat of “flying foxes” (fruit bats). Bats are the only native mammals found in American Samoa and the two species of flying foxes have wingspans close to three feet. They also fly during the day as well as at night, unlike most other bats.

Our introduction to the island was our arrival at Pago Pago airport at roughly 10 p.m. We walked out to the waiting area and the number of people there was truly amazing. It was completely packed. Everyone goes to the airport on “flight night.” We learned later that nearly entire villages turn out to welcome home anyone who has been away. A hint: when you are scheduled to leave the island on the 11:00 pm flight, go to the airport early in the day, get your boarding pass, check in your bags and leave them at that time. Unlike airports elsewhere, they will check your bags in well ahead of time and you will avoid the seemingly disorganized masses that night.

At the National Park Visitor’s Center, we met a young ranger named André who was extremely helpful. He gave us much information on the park and suggested a couple of hikes he thought we would enjoy. (This was early January but since we were in the southern hemisphere, it was summer and very hot and humid.) As we explored and found things we were curious about, we made many trips back to visit André and ask questions. He was very knowledgeable and answered our queries about the national park, the flora and fauna, as well as the Samoan culture and way of life.

We rented a car at the airport so had our own transportation but the local aiga or family buses were everywhere. They are frequent but unscheduled and the fare varies. They originate and terminate at the market in Fagatogo. There are many bus stops but you can get on or off anywhere they can pull off the road.IMG_6949

The Lower Sauma Ridge Trail led us past Samoan archeological sites and spectacular views of the northeast coastline of the island and the Vaiʻava Strait National Natural Landmark. Tall, skinny Pola Island, a nesting area for seabirds, was also visible.

We also hiked the Pola Island Trail which led to a rough and rocky beach with views of the coastline and a closer view of Pola Island. André told us there were “singing rocks” on this beach and sure enough, we discovered them. When the waves came in, they washed up over many of the rocks and when they receded, many small black rocks bounced together and down the beach making “music.” It was lovely and brought a smile.

The Samoan islands have been populated for 3,000 years and many believe this is where all Polynesian people originated. Even though separated by thousands of miles of ocean, there are similarities in the different island languages. Examples: the Samoan “Talofa” is similar to the Hawaiian “Aloha”; Samoan “ʻava” (local drink made from the root of the pepper plant) is “cava” in Tahitian.

Dutch navigator Jacob Roggeveen sighted Samoa in 1722 and other Europeans followed. The London Missionary Society sent its first representatives to the islands in the 1830’s and from there missionary influence spread. We were totally amazed at the vast number of churches and denominations on the island of Tutuila.

An 1899 agreement between colonial powers divided Samoa into spheres of influence with Germany controlling the western islands and the United States the eastern islands. Formal cession by the local chiefs came later. By 1904 the eastern islands had all been ceded to the United States, although the U.S. Congress did not formally accept the deeds of cession until 1929. In 1951 control of the territory was transferred to the U.S. Department of the Interior with an appointed governor. In 1977, a Samoan became the territory’s first elected governor. Since then all members of the territory’s Fono have been elected by the citizens. In 1981 American Samoans for the first time elected a nonvoting delegate to serve a two-year term in the U.S. House of Representatives.

A strong U.S. military connection existed with American Samoa from the late 1800’s through the mid-1900’s. During World War II, a U.S. Naval base with a Marine contingent operated from Pago Pago as a defense in the South Pacific. Throughout the island there are a number of installations from that time period. We hiked to the Blunts Point naval gun emplacement. These two large guns that could fire six-inch shells nine miles were mounted atop Matautu Ridge, at Tulutulu Point, to defend Pago Pago Harbor from potential Japanese invading naval forces. There were two additional guns mounted on Breakers Point across the bay. Along the coast of Tutuila Island, archaeologists have identified 81 pillboxes which served as an initial line of defense against an amphibious invasion. January 11, 1942 a Japanese submarine surfaced and fired at the U.S. Naval Station. Very little damage was done and this was the only time that the Japanese attacked Tutuila during WWII but Japanese submarines were active in the area.

For some 3,000 years, the people of Polynesia’s oldest culture have been attuned to their island environment. The name Samoa means “sacred earth.” Over the centuries, distinct cultural traits emerged now called faʼasamoa (the Samoan way). Lands, waters, and food sources are managed to sustain them for the future. Samoan culture, customs and traditions emphasize the importance of the extended family, the aiga. Each aiga’s lands are managed by its chief, or matai, for the common good.

We visited Tisa’s Barefoot Bar one afternoon. Tisa sat down with us and was very willing to tell us about American Samoa and the culture. She told us that the chief of each village determined how that land was to be used, such as where someone could build a house, etc. She also said property could not be sold to non-Samoans. The villagers take care of each other and make sure no one goes hungry or homeless.

Throughout the island, we saw what we called pavilions – open-sided buildings which were quite large. We were told they were “welcoming houses” (my terminology) where the high chief would welcome visitors and ceremonies were held. We learned a bit about the ceremonial aspects and the order of high talking chief down to the untitled men. The high talking chief position entails a great deal of responsibility and is not directly hereditary. Even though outside influences are very apparent and a part of their life, the American Samoans have held on to their distinctive culture.

One day we decided to visit ʻAunuʻu Island, the smallest inhabited island. We drove to the village of ʻAuʼasi and took the ferry, a small fishing boat that runs as it has passengers. We spent time on the beach, which we had entirely to ourselves. We had thought to try snorkeling but the waves were just too strong. However, it was very peaceful and beautiful for pictures of the waves and of Tutuila in the distance. Daily we swam in Pago Pago Harbor so we can at least say we swam in the South Pacific. American Samoa is an island paradise with a slow pace and very friendly people.

 

For more information:

https://www.nps.gov/npsa/index.htm

Posted in American Samoa, hiking, National Park, National Park of American Samoa, National Park Travels, Nature Photos, Pacific ocean, Polynesia, scenery, Travels in the U.S., U.S. national parks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

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The latter part of December is a perfect time to leave the cold of winter and go to Hawaiʻi. A visit to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park was part of our plan even though we had visited this park several years ago. Therefore, it didn’t count to reduce the number on our bucket list of parks visited – still standing at 49 of the 59 National Parks at this point. However, two more quickly followed but those will be different blog posts.

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park contains two active volcanoes – Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. Both these volcanoes are shield volcanoes so they are not the steep-sided cones which one usually visualizes when thinking volcano. They are rounded mounds with relatively broad flat summits. Both mountains are more massive than they appear as the base of each rests on the floor of the Pacific Ocean. From sea floor to summit, Mauna Loa is more than 30,000 feet high (taller than Mt. Everest) with 13,678 feet rising above sea level. Kīlauea rises 4,000 feet above the ocean.

Mauna Loa’s most recent eruption occurred from March 24 to April 15, 1984. No recent eruptions of the volcano have caused fatalities, but eruptions in 1926 and 1950 destroyed villages, and the city of Hilo is partly built on lava flows from the late 19th century. By the end of the 1984 flow, a river of lava was within four miles of Hilo but fortunately stagnated at that point. Since the higher elevations of Mauna Loa are much less user-friendly than Kīlauea, we took photos from afar of Mauna Loa and spent our time exploring Kīlauea.

Kīlauea is one of the most active volcanoes in the world and continues to erupt at its summit and from the Puʻu ʻŌʻō vent on its East Rift Zone. At the time of our visit, there was no current threat to nearby communities and lava was not entering the ocean.

During our visit to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, we stayed on the edge of the park in Volcano Village at Volcano Rainforest Retreat. It was a delight. Our hosts were welcoming and friendly and helpful in suggesting places to eat and hikes to take. Of the accommodations there, we chose to stay in Hale Hoʻano – the Sanctuary. This small hexagon structure was secluded in the rainforest and adjacent to the private bathhouse which featured an outdoor shower and Japanese ofuro (soaking tub). The ofuro was a great way to end our days of exploration and hiking.

The caldera on the summit of Kīlauea is about two miles wide and 400 feet deep. A caldera is a depression with steep walls formed by collapse as opposed to a crater which is smaller and can form either by collapse or by explosion. Within the Kīlauea caldera is a crater called Halemaʻumaʻu. This crater is nearly 300 feet deep and 3,000 feet in diameter. Sulfur dioxide and other volcanic gases constantly emit from this crater and vents and lava tubes. IMG_6686

An ongoing struggle between destructive and creative forces constantly plays out on a volcanic island. It could be considered a battle with the forces of Pele and the forces of science. One of many demigods held sacred by early Hawaiians, Pele is honored as the goddess of the volcano and Halemaʻumaʻu Crater is her home. As lava flows destroy land, they also create new land.

We hiked the Kīlauea Iki trail – a 4-mile hike beginning in a rain forest on the crater rim and descending 400 feet to the crater floor. Once on the crater floor, we walked across the site of the last major eruption of Kīlauea Iki (1959). Remnants of this eruption were evident. Lava spewed from a vent in the crater wall for five weeks, with one geyser of lava reaching 1,900 feet in the air – the highest lava fountain ever measured in Hawaiʻi and possibly the highest on Earth. Puʻu Puaʻi is a 400-foot-high cinder and spatter cone created by those lava fountains in 1959. IMG_6715

The crater floor is a somewhat eerie landscape with boulders in places, upheavals which looked like buckled macadam, and very little vegetation. The lehua is the delicate, scarlet-red blossom of the ʻōhiʻa tree and provided bright spots of color in an otherwise barren outlook. It was hot in the crater in late December so we were glad we had sufficient water with us. This is probably not somewhere one would like to hike in July.

There are two distinct types of lava. Pāhoehoe has a smooth billowy surface while ʻaʻā is rough and jagged and looks a lot like clinkers. A pāhoehoe flow can fold and twist to form ropy patterns and turns black as it cools and hardens. In contrast, as ʻaʻā lava moves downslope, it is more explosive and is torn into loose, jagged pieces.

We had dinner one evening at the Volcano House restaurant overlooking the Kīlauea caldera. After dark we went on to the Jaggar Museum overlook which is much closer to the Halemaʻumaʻu crater. It was absolutely one of the most amazing sights! The lava lake inside the crater gives off an extraordinary amount of light which creates a reddish glow through the emitted gases and reflects in the clouds. One of those things that must live on in our minds’ eye as photos at night with many others doing the same thing just did not turn out. However, this night-time display was definitely a highlight of our visit to this park.

Nāhuku (also known as Thurston Lava Tube) provided a nice easy hike. When the top of a flow crusts over and encloses a molten stream of lava in a tunnel of hardened rock, a lava tube is formed. The hardened crust acts as an insulator so the internal lava remains fluid. At the end of an eruption, the fluid may drain out leaving a tube. The Thurston Lava Tube trail is an easy short loop starting in a lush tropical rainforest, descending through the lava tube and circling back to the parking lot.

Throughout the park there are diverse biological resources, many of which are rare or endangered. Human and non-native plant and animal presence have had a great impact on native plants and animals. When Polynesians first arrived, nine or more species of geese lived on the islands. At least seven of these were flightless. All but one species are now extinct. The surviving goose, the nēnē, is Hawaiʻi’s state bird and is a federally listed endangered species.

 

For more information:

https://www.nps.gov/havo/index.htm

Posted in Hawaii, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, hiking, National Park, National Park Travels, Nature Photos, Travel, Travels in the U.S., U.S. national parks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Fall in the San Juans

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Crisp invigorating air, mountains with a bit of first snow up high, aspens with their vivid display of color all herald the end of summer and approaching winter. Fall has its own character. It’s refreshing after the heat of summer by the end of which everything seems a bit tired and ready for a change. Even though we know the cold is on its way, Mother Nature puts on a show as if to say “every season has its own time and own beauty.”

Fall color in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado is incredibly beautiful and fleeting. Choosing the right time to visit to try to hit peak color can be challenging. Each year varies not only in timing of the color but also in the brilliance. There are many variable factors. Weather, elevation, and rainfall throughout the year all play a role.

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This year we went north of Durango and Silverton one weekend and saw quite a bit of color but not as overwhelming as some years. We also went to LaPlata Canyon and the color there had barely started. By the following weekend much of the color was gone north of Durango but LaPlata Canyon had mostly turned.

 

Most of the color in southwestern Colorado is the brilliant gold of the aspens with patches of the shrubby red Gambel oak. Then there is also the occasional aspen group that turns a burnished red or orange for additional interest. I’ve wondered why some aspen turned red or orange so I did a bit of research and found some rather interesting ideas.

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Sensing shorter periods of daylight, trees quit producing chlorophyll, the green pigment that helps capture the sun’s energy. This allows the quieter pigments in the leaf to express themselves. These include yellow (xanthophylls) and orange pigments (carotenoids). Reds and purples come from anthocyanins which are present in red and orange aspens but not in yellow aspens. Scientists think since the red occurs on only some trees it is probably a genetic trait. Research has also shown that yellow trees remained yellow from year to year but one tree selected for its redness at the start of a five-year observation was red only for the first year and yellow each following year, and most of the red and orange leaves fade to bland yellow within a week of falling.

 

Of course, this also leads to the question of why trees invest in creating pigments other than energy-gathering green at all. Nobody seems to have answered that but some ideas are that red acts as a sunscreen to keep played-out leaves from getting over excited by photons or that color might throw off green-munching bugs or be a tree’s way of showing insects its vigor to ward off attack.

I think I prefer the idea that the brilliant foliage of fall is simply Mother Nature’s way of enticing us to stop and truly look at and appreciate the beauty and wonder of our world.

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Posted in Autumn Color, Colorado, fall foliage, Nature Photos, San Juan Mountains, scenery, Travels in the U.S., Western U.S. | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Wildflower Hike in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado

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July in the San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado is prime time for wildflowers in the higher elevations. The most spectacular array of wildflowers we encountered this year occurred along the Pass Trail to Engineer Mountain. This trail starts at Coal Bank Pass between Durango and Silverton, Colorado.

We arrived at the trailhead early enough in the morning to snag a parking spot which can be a problem at times. The trail is well-defined and maintains a fairly steady ascent which of course means the return is downhill all the way. It’s always a plus to have the uphill hike on the outbound.

This is an extremely popular trail and the day we hiked it, at times it felt like we were part of a parade. There were lots of people, dogs and many annoying mountain bikers who felt the trail belonged to them. Apparently, they haven’t read the International Mountain Biking “Rules of the Trail” which state that they should yield to other non-motorized trail users. Since this is a pretty narrow trail most of the way, it was somewhat of an issue.

The weather was perfect for hiking, the scenery was gorgeous and the flowers were abundant.

The incredible beauty of the San Juans never fails to impress and to lift one’s spirits.

 

Posted in Colorado, hiking, Nature Photos, San Juan Mountains, scenery, Western U.S., wildflowers | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments